Résultats de la recherche - Postacchini, Matteo

Long (infragravity) waves Navier-Stokes equations Nonlinear Shallow-Water Equations Normalized Scalar Product T1-995 TA1-2040 analytical and numerical modeling bathymetry estimate beach equilibrium beach erosion beach inundation beach recovery bed shear stress bound waves climate change climate changes coastal region coherent events delft3d dissipation downscaling forced waves friction coefficient hydrodynamics initial morphology integral contravariant formulation laboratory experiments large-scale experiments longshore transport marine radar