Chapter Action men: martial fashions in Florence, 1530-1630

This chapter analyses the influence of contemporary ideals of valour, physical strength, and martial skill on male court fashions. It outlines the various channels that enabled the propagation of martial styles and begins by examining the close relationship between inner valour and outward display,...

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1. autor: Currie, Elizabeth
Format: Online
Język:angielski
Wydane: Firenze University Press 2022
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Dostęp online:ONIX_20220601_9788855185653_786
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author Currie, Elizabeth
author_browse Currie, Elizabeth
author_facet Currie, Elizabeth
author_sort Currie, Elizabeth
collection Directory of Open Access Books
description This chapter analyses the influence of contemporary ideals of valour, physical strength, and martial skill on male court fashions. It outlines the various channels that enabled the propagation of martial styles and begins by examining the close relationship between inner valour and outward display, highlighting the meanings ascribed to the words “bravo” and “bravura” in sixteenth-and seventeenth-century Italian texts and imagery. Florentine courtiers were surrounded by idealised representations and performances of warfare, including mock battles with lavish costumes that were a key feature of Medici propaganda. Soldiers and mercenaries were themselves frequently characterised as fashion setters, associated with gaudy colours, flamboyance, and ornate decorations considered inappropriate male attire in many civic contexts. The chapter proceeds to focus on three key aspects of male dress connected with military might and physical strength: leather upper garments, frogged fastenings on cloaks and gowns, and adherent, short trunk hose. Consumer demand for these styles and their cultural meanings are traced through contemporary literature, visual sources, and archival records.
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spelling doab-20.500.12854ir-832412022-06-02T04:26:42Z Chapter Action men: martial fashions in Florence, 1530-1630 Currie, Elizabeth Florence fashion masculinity military bravery This chapter analyses the influence of contemporary ideals of valour, physical strength, and martial skill on male court fashions. It outlines the various channels that enabled the propagation of martial styles and begins by examining the close relationship between inner valour and outward display, highlighting the meanings ascribed to the words “bravo” and “bravura” in sixteenth-and seventeenth-century Italian texts and imagery. Florentine courtiers were surrounded by idealised representations and performances of warfare, including mock battles with lavish costumes that were a key feature of Medici propaganda. Soldiers and mercenaries were themselves frequently characterised as fashion setters, associated with gaudy colours, flamboyance, and ornate decorations considered inappropriate male attire in many civic contexts. The chapter proceeds to focus on three key aspects of male dress connected with military might and physical strength: leather upper garments, frogged fastenings on cloaks and gowns, and adherent, short trunk hose. Consumer demand for these styles and their cultural meanings are traced through contemporary literature, visual sources, and archival records. 2022-06-02T04:26:41Z 2022-06-02T04:26:41Z 2022-06-01T12:29:30Z 2022 chapter ONIX_20220601_9788855185653_786 https://library.oapen.org/handle/20.500.12657/56602 9788855185653 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/83241 eng Datini Studies in Economic History open access image/jpeg Attribution 4.0 International https://library.oapen.org/bitstream/20.500.12657/56602/1/29760.pdf Firenze University Press 10.36253/978-88-5518-565-3.20 10.36253/978-88-5518-565-3.20 2ec4474d-93b1-4cfa-b313-9c6019b51b1a 9788855185653 21 Florence open access
spellingShingle Florence
fashion
masculinity
military
bravery
Currie, Elizabeth
Chapter Action men: martial fashions in Florence, 1530-1630
title Chapter Action men: martial fashions in Florence, 1530-1630
title_full Chapter Action men: martial fashions in Florence, 1530-1630
title_fullStr Chapter Action men: martial fashions in Florence, 1530-1630
title_full_unstemmed Chapter Action men: martial fashions in Florence, 1530-1630
title_short Chapter Action men: martial fashions in Florence, 1530-1630
title_sort chapter action men martial fashions in florence 1530 1630
topic Florence
fashion
masculinity
military
bravery
topic_facet Florence
fashion
masculinity
military
bravery
url ONIX_20220601_9788855185653_786
work_keys_str_mv AT currieelizabeth chapteractionmenmartialfashionsinflorence15301630